Roatan Island – Where is that?
Today’s Roatan still has the flavor of finding the gold that the Spanish galleons carried two and three hundred years ago. As they sailed by, pirates hidden in the mangroves slipped out to snatch what they wanted. Roatan of today is still the island of gold rewards, the lushness and raw beauty with its surround of still pristine coral reef pulls in the adventurers of the 21st century.
Coconut palms outline the beaches and fill the landscape, magnificent mango, almond, cashew, banana trees nestle next to a hundred varieties of ancient and native flora. They cover and spill down from a boney ridge that backbones the long skinny island, freeing up the ribs for homes tucked into colonias of English and Spanish Honduran families. Hilltops, beach fronts and villages attract a world of wanderers from Canada, South Africa, Australia, the United States, and the British, the Dutch, and the Germans from Europe.
Each looking to find their pot of gold in the lush landscapes and in the vivid blues of the Caribbean Sea.
Where is it? Though just thirty miles off the coast of Honduras, it’s no measure of the differences between the island of Roatan and the mainland. Yes, poverty pronounces itself in both parts of Honduras yet Roatan remains the Cinderella of the family. So long as there’s enough rain illustrated by the intense greenery, enough health care, food and shelter, even those without jobs can survive. Helping hands are everywhere. The struggle toward economic health continues daily.
To the tourist the island holds multiple moments. “It’s a hot, insect infested paradise,” says one. Yes, there are tropical bugs and lizards: “no-seeums,” mosquitos, enolis, geckos, monkey la las, iguanas, typical tropical residents.
There are also birds of varied color and calls that pleasure the early morning riser. The underwater playground takes one’s breathe away, wondering at the color palette and never ending creativity of the painter of this world.
Visitors may be surprised at the variety of resorts, hotels, and guest houses involved in showcasing their special Roatan. The island even boasts a Pete Dye designed 18 hole gorgeous golf course with magnificent views.
This mountainous and tropical paradise has encompassing reefs that are the second largest system in the world, capturing the loyalty of tons of travelers of the scuba diving and snorkeling sport. Roatan as a whole is like a multi-layered fabric of many threads, integrated with many colors. Those who go there experience this, that’s why they go back.
Understanding the cultural anthropology of the island begins at the elementary level…so much to learn about such wonderful people and a fascinating history! Come to the island and discover your own chapters.

Paris, just saying the name is exciting. It’s many people’s favorite city. Mine too. But how do you experience it in just a few days?
Walking and soaking up the magnificent architecture and the River Seine and its bridges is the starting place.
Buy a day ticket on the underground Metro, another remarkable Paris attraction. With a map, hop off the train at different stops and explore the community where you land. You’ll be surprised at the different environments … there’s so much to see and admire. The Metro takes you to all the famous attractions too.


Flower stands color the streets all day long. Top off all these adventures at night with music. On telephone poles and walls are pasted play bills about brilliant classical musicians and music at church venues. Don’t miss this. There’s nothing quite like sitting in the oldest church in Paris listening to a piano soloist playing Chopin. If you know La Sainte Chapelle and its magnificent stained glass windows, add to that a chamber music sized orchestra playing Handel, Mozart and Vivaldi.

And I hesitate to mention the delectable French food and wine. Just know that the French are experts in how to eat, drink and cook. A poor meal is hard to find, even in a dumpy little place near a train station. Enjoy having a drink in the corner of the bar where Stalin and Lenin conspired. Cafes, bistros, brasseries, restaurants contain a history book best enjoyed at an outdoor cafe over an expresso.
The second largest city in France is Marseille which has some resemblance to its bigger sister, Paris. The stunning cathedral Notre Dame de la Garde crowning the highest hill dominates Marseille. The hard life and past criminal element of this port city has been replaced by sparkling Paris-like buildings, grand homes along the corniche (named Corniche JF Kennedy, by the way) and hundreds of tourists.
The “action” is around the Vieux-Port or Old Port where the hotels have views of the boating activity and the cathedral lit up at night plus restaurants for every taste.
In Paris, it’s the Latin Quarter with winding streets to stroll, while checking out which cafe has food that entices and which one has live music of your choice.
For a more upscale lunch or dinner, the Cafe La Paix across from the famous opera house satisfies with a sparkling old world environment. For a ‘must see,’ walk across the street to Le Palais Garnier, the former but still magnificent Opera House inaugurated in 1875. The Grand Staircase alone will knock you out. In the auditorium, the immense crystal chandelier hangs below Mark Chagall’s brightly colored ceiling painting. It introduced me to this artist almost fifty years ago. At that time we strolled the vast and richly decorated foyers and salons during intermissions of the opera Carmen.


Oh Paris holds wonder after wonder like the parks we found exiting the Metro. Turn yourself around, Google Paris, put on some music and replenish yourself with the City of Love and a wee bit of her little sister.
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Goodbye, Greece
We’re leaving our last island today, Mytilini, leaving behind the Greek music playing softly around the patios, the beaches, and the antiquities. Leaving behind the laughter with those characters we met, the adventures of exploring and getting lost. And taking with us the memories. Memories of Paros, our favorite island, with its dry countryside and perfect examples of Greek villages. Naxos, bigger, greener and with high mountains, had winds that are common on these islands.

What a venue for music!
There we sat in the stone-walled “basement” of the Venetion Mansion on the hill, listening to a Russian play with passion some Beethoven, Vivaldi, Chopin and Rachmaninoff, plus some of his own stirring compositions. We met a world-renowned potter in a small village, a woman whose soul was with her art and not with her fame.

Supper on a farm
We experienced a supper at a country farm, all food organically grown there.
We’ll pass over Santorini, only to say the leaving was as different as the stay. Our flight was cancelled due to high winds, so we opted to take the midnight ferry to Athens. The scene where we waited after the taxi raced us down the mountain was out of a movie. Sitting on the dock around the open-all-night cafe were couples and singles, smoking, arguing, gesturing, wasting time, and dressed in torn jeans, dark clothes looking as if bought from the 3rd-hand store. When the ferry appeared, looming out of the dark, lights ablaze, the churning sea challenged the operators to hit the dock to lower the ramps. We all by then were packed together, in a long line of necks craning to see this hazardous operation. The ferry backed up, then back and forth, trying to make the dock while the wind and spray whipped us all in the dark. We scuttled aboard, looking and feeling as if we were fleeing the country.

Mytilini
We made it to Mytilini a day late but ready to explore this huge island, filled with olive trees, thousands and thousands of them covering the mountains.

Mytilini (Lesvos)
Our day drives saw little traffic, around every corner a “wow.”



Olive trees everywhere
Yesterday we rode bikes up and down our beach road to lunch on beetroot salad and a slab of 4 x 5 x 3/4 inches of Greek feta…just my lunch. By the way, there is nothing like their beet salad with the beet greens cooked and lavishly draped over the beets…olive oil and sesame seeds drizzled over the top. Bill’s was traditional Greek salad for the fourth time, his with the usual aforementioned sized cheese placed on top.

Tomato, feta and eggplant…wine?
An alternative is feta over just picked sliced tomatoes. If you like yogurt, you must come to Greece for their yogurt, (or look for the genuine type in the supermarket at home). It would be a perfectly good reason to book a trip, don’t you think? Our afternoon Mediterranean swim and a sun soak finished our last full day in the islands.
Our special monastery visit on this island, (also called Lesvos and Lesbos…all Greek names seem to have at least 3 other names), brought to us again how deeply ingrained religion is to those here…(more Greek Orthodox than Catholic).
The believers kiss all the pictures, icons, etc. in the church, and light a small candle during their visit.
As Bill is packing the car for our morning tour ending at the airport, I must get some of this written to share and also stored for our own remembrances.

Last night in Greece
Last night’s orange and full moon with the golden path across the water said it all…this has been “A Trip,” inspiring, fulfilling, grand in its scope while seeing loving family and friends that gave those much needed and appreciated layers to the experiences. Best to all, sending Greek feta tastes, baklava sweet kisses, and European loving moments,
These sparkling highlights are stand outs with family, friends and in hotels on our US trip. There are subtle touchstones that make a trip, or conversely break it. What is it that made a lasting impression after leaving “home-away-from-home” and of the people who inhabit those memories? And, I think lasting impressions are what change us.

Elizabeth and Paul
In Washington DC, our highlight snuck up on us. Who would think that a family member could turn into a star of our trip, and be a special sparkle to our future? Beautiful niece Elizabeth who started at the Reagan White House now works at various “giving” jobs. She has entered our hearts, after being constrained from knowing us for years. Maybe time held us away from each other in order for us to grow into the people we are now, confident in the importance of family friendships and love. From now on, Washington DC will be on our permanent visiting list. And as it should be for being with a spectacular writer and compassionate woman with a big heart, her wonderful husband and three super children.

Blending
The dear Sanders family, our former Roatan neighbors, treated us to their first blending afternoon of their “reds” at their Glasshouse Vineyard in Free Union outside of Charlottesville. This enterprising couple will welcome you to their glass house tasting room designed by Jeff. You won’t be able to leave without Michelle’s homemade chocolates and her own chocolate wine she named Meglio del Sesso (which means “Better then sex”). Quote from Bill, “It’s good but not that good.”

Antrium 1844
Almost to the border of Maryland and Pennsylvania and near Gettysburg is Antrium 1844. Dort and Richard Mollett (who said they’d give a % off to my select travel reading group) bought a worn-down group of very old buildings and over the next years remodeled, refurbished, redid, and did re-everything to them. This handsome historic Inn in the small town of Tannytown is a visit to the past.
The furnishings are authentic in every detail, superb meals are served with elegant style, and the guest houses are dotted between gardens of flowers, fountains, and small benches for contemplation of the surrounding woods. The Mollets have been refurbishing homes for many years, but now spend some of their leisure time, when they have it, on Roatan. As new friends for us, their obvious talent in making every detail of the Inn a delight to the eye was a wonderful discovery. As are Dort and Richard. Their Inn is a fitting place of solace from the feelings stirred up about the battle at nearby Gettysburg.


The BEST for breakfast
Another favorite hotel that conveys the experiences of its surroundings is the Hay-Adams Hotel in Washington DC. Famous for being the meeting place of heads of state and our leaders, the staff greeted and treated us as if we were just that. The small wood-paneled lobby and nearby pristine smallish dining room done in the same soft beige, stone and white colors as our hotel room, felt just like home. It was a room so civil and relaxing that we lingered for hours over breakfast and small talk. With all the elements of power exuding from the walls, we felt completely comfortable, the secret of a great hotel.

Lafayette Park
Located across the street from Lafayette Park and the White House, some of the hotel rooms have direct views of that most famous of houses.
D.C. also has more than 230,000 acres of park space, from Rock Creek Park to the 57-acre grounds of the Washington National Cathedral, where you can buy herbs harvested from its gardens.

That most famous of houses
Throughout the states are those ubiquitous motels and hotels that are reasonable in price and provide free breakfast, daily newspapers and internet. Our favorite was Best Western where the rooms have a couch and desk-set-up or a living room attached, prices the same as the smaller and plain hotel rooms. Most of the time costs were less than quoted in our AAA books. Food prices have not gone down at all, even at the homogenized restaurants that are covering every state, like weeds on former gorgeous green pastures. Unfortunately, there isn’t a place to drive any more that isn’t very far away from the same stores, same fast-food restaurants and same motels and hotels.

Nashville
After staying in lovely Lexington, Virginia, during a huge gulley-washer and the only storm of the trip, how exhilarating it was to drive into a big city and be immediately impressed. Would you guess it would be Nashville, Tennessee? Though known as the Music City, it’s more than that. It has the “opposites attract” thing going on. Combined with elegant skyscrapers and buildings of Greek-influenced design are Broadway’s bars of honky tonk fame such as Tootsies and the Boogie Bar. Two contrasting favorites are the ATT Building, with two silver spheres piercing the sky (at one angle Batman’s head comes to mind), and the only copy of the Parthenon in the world, used as an art museum.
In 1910, the Nashville Hermitage Hotel opened, advertising its rooms as “fireproof, noise proof and dustproof, $2. And up.” It’s been graced by historied personages, and was the national platform for both pro-and anti-suffrage forces, Tennessee casting the deciding vote.
The handsome lobby has cushioned couches asking to be used, a setting and staff to welcome every guest. The Country Music Hall of Fame and the Grand Ole Opry Theater destinations for country music fans were damaged by floods. The corkscrew shaped Cumberland River did serious damage from which parts of Nashville still recover.
The Gulch, not far from famed Music Row, wins the honor for having everything from good mass transit to LED traffic lights and plenty of amenities within a half-mile walk.
Memphis, Tennessee, where rock and roll took up residence with Elvis, and the blues emerged, has its historic hotel known for its famous ducks. Yes, ducks. A half-dozen full-grown ducks sit and swim in the lobby centerpiece fountain, and then at 5:00 PM are walked through the room to an upper floor to their overnight cages. The silhouette of a duck shares honors as the hotel logo, as this duck parade has been going on for years.
Every driving trip, if possible, needs to include a stop with a special long-time friend, one that knows your history and maybe your secrets. It gives that necessary grounding we all need from time to time.

Susanne
Going through Dallas on our way home, we stopped to see Susanne, our Danish friend for many years since she and I met in Las Vegas on a modeling assignment. Instead of taking in the clubs when we met, we lay on the floor of our hotel room and discussed politics, finding out that we were both ‘Goldwater Girls.’ Tells you where we “were” forty some years ago. Getting closer to home, we had a quick lunch in Austin with dear Cousin Richard. Do you ever want to just laugh and giggle? Just stop by and see Richard.
Today we’re back, after thirty two days of travel. We thought that not having any reservations or dates to meet meant that impromptu adventures would be around every turn in the road. And they were! We let our instinct guide us, lived moment to moment, and took turns with choices. We also believe that appreciation is the finest way to think. The more appreciation going out, the more to appreciate comes back. In that regard, we thank our indispensible GPS Gertrude and that best of all dragons, Toothless, our Mercedes convertible for carrying us on wings of joy throughout OUR COUNTRY.